Making circuits with perforated board is simple, but it may also be really slow. All my connections so far were done with PCB insulated and uninsulated tinned wires. I got quite fed up with that process and searched for faster ways of working. Dear Google gave some better ways to carry current from place A to B. Please look this
excellent tutorial by R.Clarke, one article at
Instructables and the thing draw into extreme, really into a art by sir
Elm Chan.
After web learning session I had purchased some 0.25mm and 0.1mm enamelled wires. The thicker of wires seemed to have too good insulation for its spec sheet (220C melting point, my ass), as I was unable to solder it even with burning, too hot 450C iron. The thinner wire instead could be soldered by a measly 430C and 3-10 seconds of time. After some sweat, trial, retries and burned fingers I found a suitable work flow;
- Press the other end of wire by finger against the pcb
- Use the wiring pen (or a just tip of a mechanical pencil, where the thin and soft wire is easy to insert) to make 5-10, tight turns around the leg of component. The turns need to be tight enough, so the wire will not get loose before soldering
- Draw wire to the destination. It is easier to work, if there are some extra length in wire, so one can lift and move them even after soldering.
- Again, press the wire with a finger against pcb while making 5-10 rounds around the destination component leg.
- It is ok to leave +1cm of wire before cutting it by pliers. If one tries to cut it too close the wire, the wire may get loose and re-inserting it with tweezers takes quite some time. If the wire gets loose, it may be easier and faster to just replace it with a new one. Of course, if there are multiple, unsoldered wires on multiple layers, the replacement may be tricky too.
- Goto 1 until some amount of wires are drawn. At the beginning, it may be easier to draw and solder wire by wire, but after some experience they can be done in batches.
- It is solder time. Adjust the iron to the proper wire insulation melting point. On my wire and soldering station the best temperature is 430C. The melting insulation is said to produce toxic (!!!) fumes, so some kind of extra fan is good to have.
- Put the tip of iron against the wire and component leg, insert solder to improve heat transmission and let the insulation burn. It is funny to see, that while the insulation vaporises, the solder blob bubbles and eventually it just sucks itself into the solder pad. After some trial and error one learns the technique.
- The melting insulation seems to be quite hostile against the solder iron tip, so one needs to clean the tip in sponge after each joint or few. The tip may also require re-tinning quite often too.
- After soldering, cut off the excess wires by a sharp knife, I used a simple Stanley blade knife. The connections need to be tested, as the hot solder or flux (?) may make some unwanted connections to fellow neighbour pads.
After learning to use, the enamelled wire is extremely handy while working with the perforated board. One does not need to peel the insulation off, no need to measure the wire length before wiring or cutting and due to it being insulated, they can be drawn on top of each other. All this means that it takes a fraction of time to make a prototype than before, when using a typical un-stranded PCB insulated wire. Of course, there are drawbacks; the wire I used is a bit thin, one may need a magnifying glass to verify or trace the contacts. The energy carrying capacity is also low, so it is better to use it only for logic level connections, not for grounding or power supply lines. Also on higher frequencies this layout may not be a option, but who needs over few megahertz anyway?-)
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One wired and soldered board. Note the thin as hair wires, ignore the fixes and awful blobs;) |
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Example of the work in progress, some wires drawn but not yet soldered.
The reel of wire and its holder, also the "tool" used as a ad-hoc substitute of a wiring pen. |
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